Can you scrub jute soles with water?

Only very lightly, with a barely damp cloth. Viscata says never to soak the jute, and Naguisa explains that water can deform the sole.

Can baking soda help with jute soles?

Mainly against odours and damp. Toni Pons, quoted by Canal 26, recommends sprinkling it on a dry sole, leaving it a few hours and brushing it off.

How to Clean Jute Soles Without Ruining Them

Clean jute soles dry. Every maker we read gives the same reason: jute is a porous plant fibre that drinks water, and a soaked sole can swell, lose its shape and start to smell. So the toolkit is a soft brush first, a dry powder second, and a barely damp cloth only as a last resort.

Why water is the enemy

The Barcelona espadrille maker Naguisa explains that jute "absorbs water easily, which can deform the sole", and that moisture can rot the fibres and cause a bad smell. The shoe brand Wonders gives the same warning for jute wedges: avoid prolonged contact with water. Keep that in mind at every step below.

The method, from gentlest to strongest

Start at level 1 and only move up if the mark is still there.

Level	What to do	Source
1. Dry brush	brush the braid with a soft-bristled brush to lift dust and sand	Castañer, Wonders
2. Dry cloth	rub light dirt off with a dry cloth	Viscata
3. Baking soda	mainly for odour and damp: on a dry sole, sprinkle baking soda, leave a few hours, then brush it off with a soft brush	Toni Pons, quoted by Canal 26
4. Barely damp cloth	dab, do not rub, with a cloth that is only just damp; dry straight away	our cautious reading of the makers' rules

Brushing "with the direction of the rope" is our own tip: brushing across the braid can lift loose fibres.

Reading the sole before you start

Take a minute to look at the sole before you reach for a brush. Loose grit trapped between the braids is the most common problem, and a dry brush removes it. A dark patch that does not lift usually means oil or old moisture, so dry methods will only improve it a little, and rubbing harder tends to fray the rope. A sole that smells musty, feels spongy or has lost its flat shape is a different case, because the fibres have taken in water, and cleaning will not undo that. Work in good light, on a table, with the shoe held steady, and clean one small section at a time so you can see what each step does. If the rubber layer underneath is intact, you can brush its edge more firmly, but keep the brush away from the glued seam where the upper meets the sole. Stop as soon as the sole looks acceptable: more cleaning only adds wear.

Drying after any moisture

Blot with a dry cloth.
Dry flat in the open air and out of direct sun, as Castañer recommends for the whole shoe.
If only the sole is slightly damp, Naguisa suggests a hair dryer to evaporate the moisture. Keep it moving and not too close, so the heat does not hit one spot.
Viscata advises against heaters and tumble dryers, because high temperatures damage the materials.

What not to use

Harsh chemicals: Viscata advises against harsh chemicals on espadrilles.
Vinegar: the Canal 26 article notes that it has little backing for removing odours, and quotes Toni Pons warning that jute can swell and deteriorate in contact with liquid.
Soaking or the washing machine: Viscata says never to soak the jute sole in water.

If the sole has swollen

Naguisa is blunt: if water has made the sole swell, the structure may be damaged beyond repair, and "it's time to say goodbye" to the pair. Short of that, let them dry fully before wearing them again.

Prevention

Viscata suggests a protective spray designed for jute, to help repel moisture and stains, and recommends keeping espadrilles away from wet or muddy ground. On rainy days, see can espadrilles get wet?. For the canvas part of the shoe, follow how to wash espadrilles.